Minami Izu Umi Ga Hama

Orion’s belt
fades into the pink.
Breeze conducts
The sounds of surf
into singing pines
that greet the sun
rising from distant
California.
Color by
color, awakening birds
add their voices
one by one by one.

The final crescendo of a magnificent trip was our 'anniversary trip' to Minami Izu Umi Ga Hama--a on sen (hotsprings) hotel 2.5 hours south of Tokyo. The train ride was gorgeous--beach after beach, quaint villages, clear water, fantastic views of the Pacific--traffic on Japan's PCH! The tatami room was wonderful.

Dinner this time was 12 courses, highlighted by the steamed bream and the sashimi service for two (see photo). I canceled the last 2 courses--just too much. Our own kimono-clad waitress both in the room (complete with its outside bath--roten buro--in the open air balcony under the Carmel-like pines) and in the restaurant. Several walks on the beach, clad in our hotel garb.

Preparing and presenting food is the universal art of Japan. In a country where the architecture is mostly utilitarian, and dress is meant to NOT draw attention to yourself as "standing out," the opposite applies to food. Every morsel is prepared, displayed, and partaken of with reverence--and is a celebration of life.

Some farewell observations:
  • subway cars reserved for women only on weekends, so rampant is the harassment situation
  • young women walking awkwardly on very high heels with bows in the back of them, as if ready to fall to their knees and assume kimonos
  • one of the most obvious fashions: dress shorts, with black boots
  • white coats definitely “in,” in all lengths
  • New Year’s “fortune bags” at all the stores. You pay $10 or $20 or more, and then open the bag at home to see what’s inside: cake, pillow, stress squeezie, etc. Only in today’s Japan, people are looking into the bags before they buy them. I mentioned this was the end of a tradition. No, they say, it’s just a new variation on it!
  • in the spas, you know if you’re in trouble if anyone is looking at you; if they’re not, you’re not doing anything wrong
  • Last lunch at Mitsumatsus was exquisite sushi delivered in exquisite lacquer Bento boxes from a local sushi restaurant! The restaurant picks up the empty boxes the next day.














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