NAPA MAN JIM WHITE RATES TOP THREE 2008 WINES



2006 Aterberry Maresh Pinot Noir, White Rose Vineyard.

I could write a sonnet, a book, an encyclopedia about my love for this extravagant, balanced, elegant, mature, brilliant Pinot Noir from the Willamette Valley in Oregon. I learned about this wine at The Tasting Room, in Carleton, OR, during a May visit. I have opened many bottles in my home since and every one gets a forehead-slapping, “I can’t believe how good this wine is” remark from Napa Valley winemakers, visitors, friends, and knowledgeable sommeliers for whom I pour it. A perfect, 100-point Pacific Northwest Pinot Noir. And they said it couldn't be done!




1997 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon.

I have long respected Ed Sbragia’s work as wine director at Beringer and thought that his best-ever achievement (of many brilliant achievements) was his 2001 Beringer Private Reserve Cabernet.
But the 1997 vintage is perhaps the single most compelling wine of Ed’s that I have ever tasted and a top-tier winner of the year; it is rich, rich, rich (did I forget to say rich?) in complexity, flavor, and texture.
To be blunt: it is a textbook-perfect wine at this age and stage of evolution.
You may have read reports in Wine Spectator that the 1997 Napa Valley Cabs are beyond their prime, dried up, finished, kaput. Forget that nonsense. I have opened more than a dozen different 1997 Napa Valley Cabs this year from many different producers and they have been spectacular. In essence, don’t believe what you read, unless, of course, you read it here.
But not a one of the dozen or so 1997 Napa Valley Cabs, which we opened this year, stroked my palate the way Ed’s 1997 Beringer Private Reserve Cab did. A 100-pointer any way you look at it.





2001 Vieux Donjon, Chateauneuf du Pape

The only wine in my life of which I have drunk an entire case over time and rated every single bottle of the case a near-perfect wine was the Chateauneuf-du-Pape 1990 Vieux Donjon. I LOVED THAT CASE.
I was apparently justified in my thinking about the 1990 Vieux Donjon; in a recent issue of Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate, he quoted sommelier Doug Mohr of Vidalia restaurant, in Washington D.C., who marveled that “the greatest wine he had ever tasted was the 1990 Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape.”
Gentlemen of the jury, I rest my case.
To complement my wife's perfectly prepared home-made pappardelle with veal ragout (a variation of a Mario Batali recipe, only she did it better!), I served the 2001 Vieux Donjon, which offered a near-duplicate experience of every bottle from my case of the 1990 vintage. Here was a wine of exceptional length, extraordinary quality. This is a perfect wine, a brilliant wine, elegant, rich, balanced. A 100-pointer. There was nothing missing, no flaws, only gems
tone brilliance, bright mature fruit, terroir, minerality, and a finish that Burgundian producers would kill to have.

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